[Makeup] A Salute to Starfleet Style

THE COSMIC WOMEN OF STAR TREK NOT ONLY MADE THE SERIES IMMORTAL, THEIR POWERFUL SENSE OF STYLE SENT SPACE-AGE FASHION TO A NEW FRONTIER.

It’s impossible to think what life in space would look like without Star Trek. The TV and movie series isn’t only a limitless marvel of sci-fi storytelling; it’s a launching pad for some of the most iconic, inventive, even comical costumes we’ve ever seen. Star Trek brought street style to space and back to Earth again. Turtlenecks, spandex and tunics haven’t been the same since the Starfleet donned them, but that’s only the beginning of the rabbit hole (or black hole) of fun. Let’s explore the cosmos of Trekkie style!

Star Trek made its impact upon first contact by thematically dressing its cast in skintight clothes that (really, truly) boldly went there. The immortal Starfleet uniforms were like none other onscreen: in The Original Series, men’s uniforms were colourful tunics, while women’s were short dresses with dark knee-high boots.

A SALUTE TO STARFLEET STYLE 1

Made of velour – which looked svelte under set lights – and in a sleek Spartan silhouette, it became the official sign language of fashion’s future.

Trek’s costumes came in fabrics hailed forward for their time: plastic, Perspex, a lot of new polyblends hatched straight from the lab. In the post-Sputnik 1960s, buzzy designers like Mary Quant and Paco Rabanne were working in similar space-age materials. Plus, Star Trek was already pushing gender and racial boundaries – The Original Series featured television’s first interracial kiss! – so, androgyny and bodycon styles felt right on (or, rather, perfectly ahead of) time.

A SALUTE TO STARFLEET STYLE 2

Lieutenant Uhura, the legendary African-American character who shared that fated kiss with William Shatner’s Captain Kirk, intrepidly piloted her own red miniskirt onto primetime.  The garment flaunted a sense of empowerment, professionalism and team identity, it was a badge of modernity.  Actress Nichelle Nichols, who played Uhura, notes cheekily; “I was wearing them on the street. What’s wrong with wearing them in the air?” Touché.

Leonard Nimoy’s portrayal of the half-Vulcan,
half-human commander is at the heart of every
Star Trek fan’s obsession, and that worship comes
with its own special salute – and style. “Angular
in all the right places,” Vogue has hailed
him approvingly. V-shaped, indeed!

That gleeful sense of “Why not?” permeates many of Star Trek’s bolder style experiments. There were moments where Captain Kirk and his fellow crew resembled members of a ballet troupe at the Big Top. There were sparkle disco ensembles, tin foil bikinis, man thongs, young Wesley Crusher’s inexplicably generous collection of ruffled sweaters – shoulder pads and all. When the Starfleet landed on a foreign planet, new forms of life weren’t the only unknown variables to decode. But the pinnacle of extraterrestrial aesthetics is best captured by one name: Spock! Leonard Nimoy’s portrayal of the half-Vulcan, half-human commander is at the heart of every Star Trek fan’s obsession, and that worship comes with its own special salute – and style.  “Angular in all the right places,” Vogue has hailed him approvingly. V-shaped, indeed!

A SALUTE TO STARFLEET STYLE 3

As the series evolved, Star Trek costumes evolved to draw upon an athletic, balletic feel, incorporating stretch fabrics like spandex and Lycra to give the Starfleet look a new physique-enhancing appeal. The Next Generation’s spritely styles have influenced future-facing looks at Versace, Alexander Wang, Jean Paul Gaultier and beyond.  But thanks to social media and fan-driven events like Comic Con, Star Trek cosplay strives to heroic levels of creativity, with its most avid participants literally morphing from eyeball to modified toe-claw to capture their most cherished characters in the flesh. When the Star Trek: Mission New York convention debuts later this year for the series’ 50th anniversary, it will not only celebrate a major pop-culture milestone, it will be proof that dressing up like our heroes can keep their story, and our part in it, going forever.

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[Fashion Video] Reverie by Nick Knight

Moods of freedom and restriction both appear in Nick Knight‘s film starring Tessa Kuragi in designs by the likes of Celine, Maison Margiela, Gucci and Valentino. Intrigued by the dual lives of the model – days spent pondering psychoanalysis, evenings spent freely exploring her sexuality and engaging in shibari bondage – Nick Knight looks at fetish in this editorial for AnOther magazine’s. The shoot focuses on escapism, and the ability to form new realities through fantasy, and features styling by Katy England. Having begun communication with Kuragi on Instagram, Knight spent time understanding her passions and fixations before beginning the shoot, relying on her expertise and agency to inform the narrative of the story and thus playing with the power dynamic between photographer and model. The notion of reverie and the dance between waking life and dreams is something that has interested Kuragi for years, and informs the dynamic of the shoot. The fogged, black and white nature of the prints suggests a lack of clarity, nodding to the transient, ever-changing and fleeting nature of our fantasies.

  • Photography: Nick Knight
  • Model: Tessa Kuragi at Premier
  • Styling: Katy England at Intrepid
  • Make-up: Lucia Pieroni at Streeters
  • Hair: Cyndia Harvey at Streeters
  • Manicurist: Marian Newman at Streeters
  • Set Design: Andrea Cellerino
  • Seamstress: Tina Kalivas

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[Art] Fashion + Tattoos: Expression or Consumerism?

Tattoos are becoming more and more popular within the fashion and beauty industry. There’s already a very niche market for tattooed models but we are seeing this slowly infiltrate the fashion and beauty industry without any repercussions. So, is the industry more accepting?

While tattoos are a perpetual body modification, there are tattoo-covering products like Dermablend’s concealer that was used in an advertising campaign with fully tattooed Rick Genest, as also tattoo artist Kat Von D has also released a cosmetic line, including a Lock-It concealer that claims to cover tattoos. The two can go hand in hand to further a models career as the products allow tattooed models to become a blank canvas.

rick + Kat

[L to R] Rick Genest, Kat Von D.

Designer Marc Jacobs is heavily tattooed, that doesn’t mean all designers and brands are. Tattoos divide opinions within fashion and beauty marketing, some steer away from them within their campaigns. It really is a debate based on opinion, especially one set within an industry that is all about aesthetics and where becoming well known is all about having a unique brand and an image that defines you. Fashion and beauty industries seem to have begun accepting the diversity of models today, they want them to be recognizable and unique on their catwalks, whether that is because of their talents or their appearance.

MJ

Designer Marc Jacobs.

The influence of celebrities becoming inked could be a large contributor towards tattoos becoming socially accepted. Those who have gotten tattooed have sparked the industry and opened its doors to millions of more eyes. The modeling industry has become more accepting, and has no qualms using models with tattoos like Freja Beha ErichsenCara DelevingneErin WassonCatherine McNeil and Lily Donaldson in their shows, but celebrities have been getting tattoos and piercings for years, only now they can share it with the world on social media.

models

[L to R] Freja Beha Erichsen, Cara Delevingne, Erin Wasson, Catherine McNeil + Lily Donaldson.

Tattoos have traditionally been viewed by cultural theorists as anti-fashion due to their negative connotations and the mere fact that permanence is in stark contrast to the ethos of the fashion industry. The appearance of temporary tattoos on the pages of influential fashion magazine Vogue within the 2010 Chanel Primavera Estate Collection confirmed that the aesthetic of tattoos was in vogue, but as the permanence goes against the ethos of the ever changing industry are consumers ready for the fad to turn on them?

chanel '10 primavera estate

Chanel ’10 Primavera Estate Collection.

Nowadays tattoos are more acceptable, whether its because of the rise of ‘fashion tattoos’ or a genuine love for ink. Society’s outlook on body art has changed, they have grown to accept that individuals have the right to modify their appearances as they see fit. Tattooing is considered by both the tattooists and consumers to be a strong indicator as to the change of perception surrounding the subject in recent decades. This said, a divide between tattoos as either art or fashion does exist.

The discourse surrounding the body art of heavily tattooed individuals is vastly different to that surrounding those with only a few- who are considered to be the ones consuming tattoos as a fashion statement. Consumers of “fashion tattoos” tend not to relate to the artistic aspect of tattoos or the tattooing subcultures that exist, they are not the same individuals that turn their body into a canvas for permanent art, these individuals merely wear their tattoo as an accessory. Fashion tattoos tend to be less about the imagery and meaning behind them and more about merely adorning the body- the choice of the imagery tends to be based more upon aesthetic than anything else.

At the end of the day if you enjoy a cute “fashion tattoo” or decide that want to get a unique piece, always remember to find an amazing artist and get what makes you happy. You only live once and you shouldn’t have any regrets of what you should have done.

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